Preserving fresh hides CHEAP!!!!!

Forget freezing, Stop Drying, don't worry about rot, this article I wrote is very helpful, and will save you ALOT of MONEY and freezer space. Not to mention if you're married it'll with keep you significant other happy "out of sight out of mind".

DID YOU KNOW?

A common belief of storing fresh (green) hides is drying and freezing. Although these methods will work they can be costly or change the quality of you hides. In addition, if they are done incorrectly they can make the whole tanning process a mess or near impossible for the tanner. This guide offers suggestions to each method, plus introduces the method of Wet Salting ( my preferred method).

Freezing:

When working with any hides or even large portions of meat the idea is to get it cool as quick as possible so bacteria doesn't start making your hide or meat into a rancid mess. Bacteria is a hides worst enemy, next to unchecked dogs and rodents. Multiplying every ten minutes if not arrested these organisms ruin the hopeful tanners ambitions.

Usually hides are hurried into a bag and thrown in the freezer, this is WRONG! “Well it's frozen right? It will be ok... right?” Yes and no. The out side is frozen, because this surface is exposed to the cold air (think warm house in the winter, cold on the outside right? Snow on the roof?) ok same difference, except the bacteria now case frozen in the hide are have a party! Now depending on the size of the hide (deer-Buffalo) a hide can take from 6- 24 hours to completely freeze. This of course all depends on many factors but your common white tail in a chest freezer set to 30 Degrees F, will freeze in about 6 hours or more.

What this means is the bacteria that is breaking the hide down has plenty of time to consume the proteins allowing the dermal layer to separate, and the hair slips, so your hide, though frozen has the potential of mangy compost at the end.

If you are really set on freezing then allow the hide to remain open for an hour or so in 40 +or- degree weather, then roll bag and freeze. It's that simple, the key ingredient is patience and observation.

Drying:

Drying a hide seems pretty easy right? Just hang over a fence and let the sun and wind do the work! WRONG AGAIN! Meat and fat on a hide will turn rancid, seep into the fiber network, and begin to solar cook the hide (buffalo are famous for this). The hide will also rot while drying. Bugs canine, felines and rodent cannot resist this rancid treat, and then you're and instant favorite with the local wild life, though you may not have to worry about entertaining friends for a while.

The best way to dry a hide with no preservatives, is to completely flesh the hide clean of meat and fat , open up the hide, so no skin is rolled over or touching, and allow to dry, preferably on a frame in the shade.

Wet Salting:

Wet salting is basically pickling the hide, which will preserve the hide for a very long time. When done properly the process is CHEAP and WORRY-FREE. No freezer needed (more space for Wild game meat now) No worry's of critters messing with your hide, or losing friends!

WHAT YOU NEED TO GET STARTED:

Salt. A fifty pound bags runs about $4-$5 at your local grain elevator/feed store.

Flat surface. Plywood works great for this.

An air tight container. Plastic only, metal cans rust with salt , staining your hide.

Step I:

Spread hide out on ground, opened up fully, uncurling edges

Step II:

Put heaping amounts of salt onto hide and spread evenly all the way out to the edges (make sure to uncurl all edges, and get salt in there). The object is to get at least a little bit of salt all over the hide.

Step III:

Allow the hide to stay in the shade for anywhere from 3-6 hours. This allows any excess moisture to drain away from the hide.

Step IV:

Fold up the hide flesh side to flesh side, along the spine. Don't need to be pretty just like you would fold a towel or blanket.

Step V:

In your air tight container, place some blocks on the bottom to keep the hide elevated above the bottom, so it doesn't sit in any moisture. This moisture would rot the hide if it sat in it, because you have kept it raised above, you are ok., after a few weeks you can pull the hide out, drain the moisture out of your container, put the blocks back in and your hide back in the container, seal the lid.

I have stored Hides like this for decades and they still came out wonderfully soft and strong, as a matter of fact, the salting actually helps the hides become even softer, in my own opinion.